Choosing the wrong contractor The lowest bid does not equal the best. Be sure to do your research before selecting a contractor.
Not being practical Many people think that wood floors are a practical option. Pets’ nails can quickly cause serious damage to hardwood floors. Young children can cause more wear and tear on hardwood floors.
Not ordering extra materials When it comes to flooring, ordering up to 20% extra flooring is recommended. Since flooring is prone to cuts and breakage during installation, having extra material is a safe bet, since there is no guarantee you will be able to find an exact match.
Measurement mistakes It is very important to be accurate when measuring for new cabinets. This can be a very costly mistake. Measure, then re-measure, and then re-measure again to be sure.
Create a beautiful serving tray from an old frame.
What You’ll Need:
Satin Latex Paint
2 Drawer or door handles with screws
Remove the frame’s backing and any glass, which won’t be strong enough for the tray. You should have a 3/8-inch thick piece of glass cut to fit.
Paint the frame. After letting it dry, smooth out rough spots with a fine-grit sanding sponge.
Cut the cardboard and wrapping paper to the same size as the glass that was cut to fit in the frame.
Adhere the wrapping paper to the cardboard to avoid the wrapping paper shifting.
Place the glass in the frame, and then insert the cardboard-backed wrapping paper behind it. If your frame had a backing, put it back on. If not, create one by cutting a piece of matboard to the size of your frame. Adhere it to the back with hot glue and then let it dry.
Flip the frame right sided-up. Center the handles on the shorter sides of the frame. Screw into place, using a drill to make holes for the screw if necessary.
Decorate for Halloween with a perfectly carved pumpkin.
Pick the Perfect Pumpkin
Look for a pumpkin with solid, event colors. Try to avoid pumpkins with surface rot or soft spots.
Pumpkin Carving Tools You’ll Need:
Pumpkin carving is easier when you use the right tools.
Poker: Tape your printed pattern onto a pumpkin and create small dots along the outline the pattern using this small tool.
Raker: Remove skin and smooth pumpkin flesh with a raker tool. This tool is also great for cleaning up carving areas or etching designs into the pumpkin flesh.
Shape Punchers: Make the perfect round eyes or fun facial features with metal tubes. While an apple corer will make gorgeous circles, a pumpkin carving kit can provide additional shapes.
Saws: Head to the Halloween store for a few skinny, serrated pumpkin carving knives, which are perfect for tight designs. For adults, a small etching power tool will save time, energy, and stress for carving intricate designs.
Pumpkin Scooper: Many Halloween shops will have variations of the perfect pumpkin scoop tool, but this scoop uses serrated edges to scrap and clean pumpkins’ insides, while a pointed tip can flatten a spot for a candle.
Click here for beginner pumpkin-carving templates like the one below.
Below are a few examples to get your creative juices flowing:
This is an effective way to get a larger surface area, too, because you will end up with double the amount of corks.
Measure the dimensions of the backsplash area in your kitchen.
Slice the corks in half, lengthwise, with a utility knife. The flat side of the cork will be pressed up against the wall, while the rounded side will face out.
Glue the wine corks together by rows using the hot glue gun.
Glue the individual rows together by applying glue from the hot glue gun in between the rows. Attach the rows until you reach the desired width for your backsplash. Allow the backsplash to dry for at least 24 hours before mounting.
Mount the backsplash to the section in the kitchen where you wish to hang it, flat end against the wall. You can use the hot glue gun to mount it, since wine cork is lightweight, by applying the glue directly over the tile of the wall and pressing the backsplash into it. Hold the backsplash in place with your hands until it feels strong enough for you to let go.
Adding a Wine Cork Backsplash in your kitchen is an effective way to add texture to your space.
Behind cabinet doors, on an existing bathroom vanity for example, is the perfect place to add storage bins.
Note: This project works best underneath vanity cabinets where there are no shelves.
List of Tools:
circular saw or hand saw
compass (to layout the curves on the sides)
List of Materials:
(1) 1 x 4 x 96” select pine board (actual dimensions are 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 96”)
(4) 2” zinc mending plates (these could be painted as well as the screw heads, to match the paint of the storage bins.
(4) #10 x 5/8 in. Zinc-Plated Flat-Head Phillips Wood Screws
(4) #10 x 5/8 in. Zinc-Plated Steel Pan-Head Phillips Wood Screws
(12) 1 1/2” finishing nails
paint of your choice
The width may vary depending on lumber chosen, make adjustments to the plans as needed.
The length of the bin will vary depending on the width of the cabinet door.
The material thickness may vary depending on lumber chosen, make adjustments to the plans as needed.
(2) Sides– 7” x 3 1/2” x 3/4”
(1) Bottom– 10 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 3/4”
(1) Front – 12” x 3 1/2” x 3/4”
1. Cut the bottom to the length of 10 1/2”
2. Cut the sides to a rough length of 7 1/2”. Layout the pattern of the curves with a pencil compass. Cut along the line of the curve with a jig saw. Sand edges with sandpaper until smooth. Nail the sides to the bottom using finishing nails. Set the nails below the surface and patch with wood filler.
3. Cut the front to a length of 12”. Nail the front in place with finishing nails. Set the nails below the surface. Patch with wood filler and sand smooth.
4. Attach 2″ mending plate with flat-head screws. Have the plate over hang the storage bin about 3/4″.
5. Attach storage bin to cabinet door with pan-head screws.
Building a decorative planter box is a great way to improve the exterior of your home and boost your home’s curb appeal. Designed to hold a variety of planting containers, this one-day DIY Project will hang around for years to come.
Note: This project is designed for 42” windows. You may need to adjust based on your windows.
Step 1: Lay out the length of the front/back (A), pickets (B), bottom supports (C), ends (D), and bottom (E) on the cedar boards. Cut the parts to length and sand the smooth faces with 120-grit sandpaper; leave the rough surface of the cedar as is.
Step 2: Lay out the pickets, smooth surface down, with the ends aligned. Space the pickets evenly (Drawing 1, Project Diagram). Place the front (A) on the pickets with the edges of the two outside pickets extending 7?8″ beyond each end of the front. Drill countersunk pilot holes for the screws and secure the front to the pickets.
Step 3: Turn the assembled front over. Lay out the lowest point of the arch on the center picket and the high points on the end pickets. Use a bent dowel and some spring clamps to create the arc, and trace the shape with a pencil.
Step 4: Use a jigsaw to cut the pickets to shape, sand the curved edges, and remove the pickets for finishing. Apply primer and two coats of paint to all surfaces of the pickets.
Step 5: Secure the bottom supports (C) to the inside face of the front (A) using glue and screws (Drawing 2, Project Diagram) and.
When the paint has dried, reattach the pickets to the front. Use glue and screws to attach the back and both ends to complete the box.
Step 6: Slip the bottom (E) into the box and center it between the front and back. Drive screws through the bottom into the bottom supports to secure the board. Build the Supports
Step 1: Cut four 1″×4″ boards to length for the brackets (F) and wall cleats (G).
Step 2: Print two copies of the bracket pattern (Support Bracket Full Size Pattern, Project Diagram). Use a spray adhesive to secure the pattern to the bracket blanks. Use a jigsaw to cut the brackets to shape.
Step 3: Cut two scraps of wood to 1 3?8″ in length. Place the scraps under one of the brackets on a work surface, set the wall cleat against the bracket, and attach the cleat to the bracket with screws (Drawing 3, Project Diagram) and. Repeat for the second bracket and wall cleat.
Finish It Up
Step 1: Unscrew the brackets from the wall cleats; paint the brackets with the same primer and paint you used for the pickets, and apply exterior wood stain to the remaining unfinished cedar parts. Re-attach the brackets to the wall cleats.
Step 2: Find the center of your window opening, then mark the location of the bracket assemblies; 10 1/4″ to the left and right of the window’s center (Drawing 3, Project Diagram). Use painter’s tape to mark the location. The top of the bracket should be 2″ below the windowsill. Hold the brackets on the wall at your marks and drill pilot holes for the screws through the wall cleats into the wall.
Squeeze silicone sealant into the pilot holes drilled into the siding, set the brackets back into position over the holes, and drive the mounting screws into the house. The silicone will ensure a watertight seal. Different sidings may require different screw selections. A deck screw is great for wood or vinyl siding; brick will require a masonry screw. See a store associate for the right screw selection for your home.
Step 4: Set the window box on the brackets, drill countersunk pilot holes, and drive the 1 5?8″ screws through the back into the brackets and wall cleats (Drawing 4, Project Diagram). Load up the plants in your favorite pots and add some color to your home.
Are you looking for something to do with your collection of wine corks? Creating a bathmat might be an appealing way to reuse the corks you have collected.
Non-adhesive shelf liner
Hot glue sticks / hot glue gun
175 wine corks
1. Cut each cork in half lengthwise with a sharp pocketknife. Sand the bottoms flat if any of your cuts are jagged.
2. Arrange the corks into a rectangle, flat sides down. Use a ruler or the lines on a cutting mat to make sure your configuration of corks is as close to a straight rectangle as possible. The mat displayed above is 18.5 x 30 inches (10 x 35 cork halves).
3. Measure and cut the shelf liner to size with a rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat.
4. Transfer the outer rows/columns of corks to the shelf liner and glue them to the topside of the liner. Apply a rectangle-shaped line of glue to the flat side of each cork, about 1/8 inch from the edge, line up the cork with the edge of the mat, and press hard. Wipe away any glue drops before it hardens fully.
5. Once your frame is in place, transfer the rest of the corks to their corresponding position on the mat. You’ll probably have to do some arranging and trading places to make all the corks fit. Then remove one cork at a time and glue it down.