A majority of home buyers decide whether or not to take a closer look at your home based on its curb appeal. Investing resources on the appearance of your home can help make sure buyers have a great first impression of your home. Even if your home is not on the market, here are 5 helpful ways to boost your home’s curb appeal.
Power Wash Your Home
Power washing will brighten up your home’s exterior. You can also power wash your deck, driveway and any walkways you have. If you don’t have a power washer, renting one from a local home improvement store is an affordable option.
Freshly Paint Your Front Door
Consider freshly painting your front door a warm, inviting hue to create an attractive focal point. To give the exterior of your home a complete makeover, repaint the trim as well.
Water Your Lawn
So far we have had a very dry summer, and it shows. Be sure to water your lawn, plants and flowers to them looking healthy and beautiful. Remove any plants or flowers that have died.
Clear Away Weeds
Keep your garden and patio clean of leaves, weeds and debris. Flowerbeds should be weeded, the lawn should be mowed and hedges should be clipped.
Add Some Color
Spruce up your home by adding colorful flowers to flower containers on your porch or patio. You can also add color by planting flowers in front beds or hanging window boxes.
What other ways do you suggest to boost your home’s curb appeal?
A freshly painted front door can instantly boost your home’s curb appeal.
1. Remove Your Door
Before you get started, remove your front door. Use a slot screwdriver to remove the hinge pins, then remove the other half of the hinge from the door.
Remove the doorknocker, peephole, doorknob, and all other hardware from the door. Wash the door and let it dry.
2. Prep your Door
Use a quick drying wood filler to patch cracks. When it is dry, sand the filler smooth so that it is flush with the door.
3. Apply Primer
If the paint is in good condition, primer is not necessary. However, if you are painting you door a dark color, it is a good idea to use primer first.
Prime every side of the door – inside, outside, left and right edges, and the top and bottom. Let the door dry completely.
After priming, if there are still cracks, fill them with caulk Let the caulk dry and then re-prime where you caulked.
Use a fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface and remove any paint drips particularly in the crevices of the panels. Use an old paintbrush or a tack rag to brush off the dust.
4. Paint Your Door
Start by painting with a mangled sand brush. Paint the corners of the panels first. Work form the top panels down to the lowest. Use a roller brush to apply the paint to the raised panels, rolling with the grain of the wood. Then paint the muntins (top and then bottom), transforms (top, middle, bottom), and finish with the stiles.
Paint the door with several coats, continuing to use the angle brush first and then the roller. Remember, the darker the color, the more coats you will need.
Do you want to grow fresh herbs, but are lacking yard space. Do you have a free afternoon and basic carpentry skills? This Old House general contractor, Tom Silva, has the perfect solution: Build an all-weather raised planter for your porch or patio.
1. Cut the Legs to Length
Trim sections off both ends of a deck post to the planter’s height, leaving one end’s square section long enough to attach the planter’s sides. Make the first cut so that the longer square section measured 14½ inches, then marked 36 inches from that cut end and made the second cut. Use the first leg to mark and cut the others as shown.
2. Attach the Cleats
Cut the 1x6s and 2×2 balusters for the planter’s sides and cleats. Screw a 2×2 cleat to the inside surface of two of the longer 1x6s. Position each cleat ½ inch from the board’s bottom edge and center it lengthwise. Drill 3/32-inch pilot holes through the cleats, then secure them with 2-inch deck screws.
3. Build the Sides
The planter’s sides are made from two 16 boards butted edge to edge. Hold them together by fastening 2x2s across the joints with 2-inch deck screws as shown. For each short side, fasten a 2×2 in the center and 2 inches below the top edge to leave room for the liner’s lip. For each long side, use two evenly spaced 2x2s placed against the bottom board’s cleat.
4. Screw on the Corner Blocks
Fasten a 2×2 corner block to each end of all four sides of the planter using 2-inch deck screws. Position the blocks? inch in from the ends and ½ inch up from the bottom edges of the sides. These eight corner blocks provide a solid surface for attaching the legs to the planter and also help hold the sides together.
5. Assemble the Planter
Drill three evenly spaced 3/32-inch pilot holes through each corner block. Align one side’s corner block with the inside corner of one of the legs. Drive 2½-inch screws through the corner block and into the leg. Repeat for the remaining sides and legs as shown.
6. Install the Floorboards
Cut two 1×6 floorboards to span the width of the planter. Set the floorboards onto the cleats roughly equidistant along the planter’s length. Fasten each end of both floorboards to the cleats with a 2-inch deck screw, drilling pilot holes first to reduce the chance of splitting the boards.
7. Drill Drainage Holes in the Liner
Turn the utility tub upside down, and use a drill/driver to bore six or more evenly spaced ?-inch-diameter holes through the bottom. These holes are necessary to allow excess water to drain from the soil.
8. Finish the Planter and Attach the Hooks
Apply deck stain to the planter. Once dry, screw hooks to each end of the planter for hanging gardening tools. Set the utility tub in place, add some clean gravel, and fill the planter with soil and your favorite herbs.
Enjoy peaceful mornings and lazy afternoons on this custom built, reinvented porch swing. Below are step-by-step directions.
Build the Bed Frame
Attach the (01) sides to the (02) ends with glue and pocket hole screws (see Figure 1). Note: Use five pocket hole screws per joint for the main frame.
Position the (03) braces so that they are flush with the (01) sides (as shown in Figure 2). Using glue and pocket hole screws, attach all of the (03) braces to the (01) sides and attach the outer (03) braces to both the (01) sides and to the (02) ends. Note: Use three pocket hole screws per joint when attaching to the (01) sides; use six pocket hole screws per joint when attaching to the (02) ends.
Sand and apply a finish to the assembly. Allow to dry per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Using screws included in the packaging, attach corner braces to the (01) sides, (02) ends, and (03) braces at each of the four inside corners.
Attach the (04) bottom to the (03) braces with 1 1/4-inch screws (see Figure 3).
Attach the Hardware
Position each lag eye bolt 5 1/2 inches in from both sides of each corner (see Figure 4). Pre-drill pilot holes to match the diameter of the screw shank (not the threads) for the lag eye bolts. Attach eight lag eye bolts to the (01)sides and (02) ends of the bed frame. When attaching the lag eye bolts, use a large screwdriver or pry bar for leverage, insert the end of the tool through the end of each lag eye bolt, and twist it into place.
Predrill pilot holes to match the diameter of the screw shank (not the threads) for the lag eye bolts, and then attach four lag eye bolts to ceiling joists, one for each corner of the bed frame. To help minimize the amount of sway, position the bolts so that they are slightly beyond the bed frame dimensions.
Attach a quick link to each lag eye bolt in the ceiling joists and to one end of each length of chain. (You’ll use one length of chain per bed frame corner.)
Hang the Bed
Position the bed frame on two sawhorses or small stepladders directly underneath the four chains.
Thread each chain through the two lag eye bolts on the corresponding corners, and attach the end of the chain to a chain link above it with a quick link. Once attached, the chains form a triangle at each corner (see Figure 4).
Adjust the chains so that the bed (with mattress) is level and no higher than standard bed height (18 to 24 inches). Note: Do not store items underneath the bed to allow clearance. We recommend no more than two large adults sitting or one large adult lying on the bed at one time.
Click here for complete project details including the cut list, lumber and supplies.